McGaffs On The Fly

On behalf of my “Super Sizing” USA brethren, I would like to apologize for my families poor showing on our recent food tour.

We fought the food and the food won!

Yesterday we spent the full day on the Culinary Backstreet Food Tour with our food guide Bruno. Our tour started poorly, actually right before the tour, when we decided to have a quick snack before meeting him. Bad idea, as from the time he met us until he dropped us off 6 hours later, all we did was eat.

The tour was a fantastic time and quite a lesson in Portuguese history, influence from Brazil, different foods by region, and amazingly how little food it takes to fill us up.

We drank more Port, ate more pastries, tried new foods and set personal records on most sardines eaten in a day (we all tied at 3). Towards the end of the tour Bruno had to tell the restaurant owners to cut the food portions way back because we couldn’t keep up…how embarrassing. I thought maybe Joanie would lead us to victory because she is the champion eater of our family…but not.

Our day…

Imperio Bakery – we started with a “Jesuit,” a pastry so good and sweet that it makes my teeth hurt to think about it.

Merceario Liquor Store – a 90 year old liquor store where we had several types of cheese, pumpkin jam, and Port. If you were so inclined, you could buy a port back to your birth year or even to around 1845 ($3000 euro+)…we did not.

Marcos Ferriera – great food stand in the Mercado where we tried olive oil, olives, and lupine beans…more personal records for all of us, we’re not an olive family.

Tradicoa – another good stand in the Mercado with great nuts, figs, dried pears, and other dried fruit, which is run by a 5th generation family of the market.

Casa Louro Bar – more Port, ham, and our first run at fried sardines…really, not bad at all. Great vibe for a local bar too, I could party here.

Gazela – famous for being visited by Anthony Bourdain. Their specialty is fancy dancy sausage on buns…think hot dogs with a Portuguese twist, really good.

Restaurante Salmao – a fried dinner version of the sardines where we were given a quick lesson on filleting them and eating the oily little critters. They were really good and if you didn’t like them when you ate them no problem…they stayed with you into the next day.

Dona Mira Bar – our final stop at a Brazilian run bar for banana cake, carrot cake, and ding dong cake. It’s owned by a Grammy winning producer and a quaint back street bar that was a wonderful ending to the night. Side note, if you don’t like nude photography and art then this might not be your place.

Best surprise of the day. Turns out our guide Bruno’s day job is translating English books into Portuguese versions. Two of the works he has done are by my favorite writer (when I want to think) Ken Follett and another (when I don’t want to think) John Grisham. I wouldn’t consider this a brush with a celebrity but as far as Bruno is concerned it was close enough.

More coming…

We (the girls) decided that, although we have a wine dinner cruise coming up, that they could not wait and we needed to cross the Rio Douro to find out what Port (wine) was all about. With these two fearless leaders, I have quickly found out that most of our adventures will lead to either a) drinking or b) eating. Who am I to argue, as it turns out those are two of my passions also…so…I’ll be their Huckleberry!

Along our long walk we learned that there is more than one bridge across the mighty river and if you choose the wrong one you have a lot more walking in front of you. What are the chances, we chose the wrong bridge? More walking = more food to consume = winners.

Our visit to “the other side” included lunch at Temple D’ouro (great sushi restaurant with a robot server), a nasty rejection by an angry doorman at Sandeman Bar because they were “already too crowded,” a wonderful wine tasting and Port lesson at Quevedo Wine Tasting Room, and finally some green wine and dessert at Sabores da Fininha on the riverfront. All were outstanding except the grouchy dude at Sandeman…but…he was around my age so I get it.

Can’t wait for tomorrow, I bet we’ll be walking…eating…and drinking.

After a much needed 12 hour sleep (really did happen), we spent our second full day with just one planned event and the rest of the day walking around the city.

The day was highlighted by a visit to Livraria Lello & Irmao (Lello Bookstore). It is one of the oldest bookstores in Portugal and worldwide rated as one of the best, but the real draw is that is where JK Rowling would visit and was inspired to write The Harry Potter series. I was more impressed with the fact that this retail bookstore charged a fee (with long lines waiting) to enter to have the privilege to purchase books for a fee…what a business plan!

We were able to avoid the on and off rain most of the day but did end our night running from canopy to canopy to avoid the pouring rain. You know, it’s one of this things you’ll laugh about later on but while it’s happening you’re really pissed. In this case it’s like we were pissed on and have the wet shoes and clothes to prove it…can’t wait to laugh about this one.

After a quick stop in Newland, NC for Adult Summer Camp, we’re back on the road. It was a great 10 months but it’s so nice to start traveling again. Little Al didn’t make this trip across the Atlantic, turns out he can’t swim but he will be with us soon on US adventures.

We weren’t sitting idle for 10 months, we…bought a house in the Appalachian’s and updated it from its glorious 1970’s decor…played more golf than we thought we ever would (I have learned that more play only hurts my game while Joan quickly caught the bug and improves with each play)…we found a wonderful group of people that have created a fun loving community and quickly took us in as if we were lifelong friends…we unfortunately buried two awesome men, Joan’s dad and my older brother…and we moved back to Austin to take advantage of warmer conditions (maybe). More to come on our summer fun…

In order to take advantage of some credits we received from our cancelled 2020 overseas trip, and Joan’s theory that you have to spend money to save money, the three Amigos landed in Porto, Portugal for a 7 day adventure. The city welcomed us with tears of joy in the way of wind and heavy rain for a 72 hour period. The good news is that it has been intermittent and we’ve been able to sprint around the city without too much sogginess.

Joan and Brett have assured me that they have planned city adventures ($$), wine trips ($$), great dinners ($$) and plenty other things an old retiree would love to do.

Hang on, more to come…

The McGaff’s haven’t been on the fly, turns out when you buy a new home (built in the 70’s) you don’t have the time to travel like you are used to. We’ve made a move to Newland, NC to get away from that much mentioned Texas heat. Unfortunately, our unanticipated accepted bid on our new home was closed in January and I’ve been cold since we moved to our mountain home…be careful what you wish for.

More to come, just want to let you know…

After dropping big sis off at the Charleston airport we had the decision to make of which direction to head home and what to see along the way. Should we head north to I40 to get above the rain…or south to I10 to get behind the rain…or just take I20 and “let the game come to us?” And should we stop along the way to visit the states we pass through…anything to see or do we haven’t already? (Nothing personal GA, Al, MS, LA)

The answer is that we are ready to get to DFW to see our granddaughter’s, so we have made 2 stops and plan to arrive at The Vineyards Campground in Grapevine later on Sunday. Since we have been to NC and enjoyed the brisk early morning, and late evening chill, we cannot logically deal with any more south USA humidity. So we head to Texas where…oh yeah, we’ll at least we get to be home.

Bonus…the AC is my Airstream has decided now is a good time to challenge my sanity and has gone on the blink. The thermostat on the inside temp currently shows 32 degrees so although it’s actually a humid 80+ it will not turn on. After a quick call to a rv repair shop and going through the idiot basics (“No, it’s not on celsius”…”Yes, I have reset the thermostat”…”Yes, I’m sure it says 32”), I have decided that I will not lose to a stupid thermostat. I will win…just wait.

Late side note before posting…I won. Check Airstream forums for my amazingly brilliant answer to the surprisingly common issue (hint – it’s neither amazing or brilliant).

Nothing…more to come…for now.

When my sister arrived in Charleston she pulled out a long piece of paper with writing up and down it and announced “here is my list”. I was sure that it was her Christmas list of toys she wanted from Santa…turns out I was wrong. The list was of all the things she wanted to see/do while we were together.

• Visit a lighthouse…check.
• Take a ride in a horse-drawn carriage…check.
• Visit a plantation…check.
• See Rainbow Row…check.
• Eat plenty of seafood…check.
• Beautimous (S Texas talk) sunset…check.
• S h o p . . . Check.

Although her list did not include everything we did get to see and do, these things were just as enjoyable…or should I say memorable.

• Saw cemeteries and graveyards…and we did learn there is a difference between the two.
• Learned that a little rain goes a long way when you are only 8’ above sea level…wet shoes to prove it.
• Plenty of sweating in the humidity.
• Too much of the before mentioned eating.

Leaving tomorrow to start drive back west after dropping Sharon off for her flight. More…to…come.

We left the “natural” confines of Holden Beach (Dollar General to the left, Dollar Tree to the right) heading south to Folly Beach to arrive in Charleston for my sisters flight from SA. Little Al was the most excited because he has never met her, he was pushing Silver like never before. Pushing…rushing…can’t be late…hurry.

Right, her f-ing flight was 2 hours late so Little Al got to spend extra time in Walmart checking out his buddies while we listened to book on tape and cussing SW Airlines and their stupid overweight plane policies…really, does a few pounds really make a difference?! But…she made it…we’re having a great time…she is a bad influence…eats…and drinks…too…much.

More…to…come…

After a short 5 1/2 hour drive southeast, seemed like 10 pulling the trailer, we arrived at our next destination of Holden Beach. After a strenuous search for a home for Little Al, our last minute planning session found us at the Holden Beach RV Campground. This may not be the spot we would want to set up for full time retirement but for 3 nights it is…OK. Right now it’s pretty quiet and laid back but I’m sure once the rednecks arrive with all their ice chests and ragamuffins I’m sure the real fun will begin. Last minute planning = you get what you get.

Our week of camping and glamping with the West’s was the highlight of our trip so far. The hospitality that they and their neighbors provided was over the top and without a doubt 5 ***** worthy. The weather provided the best backdrop for a wonderful time and we plan to make the NC mountain trip an annual event.

Back to reality for now, but beautiful beaches make reality worth looking forward to for the next week. More…to…come…

Since we’ve been in Newland, life has been one full time Adult Summer Camp filled with dinner, boys/girls night out, golf, hiking, both rock and roll, and plenty of camaraderie and new friendships. Apparently since the season is winding down and everyone is closing up their summer home to go elsewhere, the need to have one last party is more urgent than ever. One last night for us here…if we survive it.

Our plan is to leave tomorrow and head east to an rv park near the water so can enjoy the last days of summer on the water. Of course, since we have no reservations that may change but one thing will not…we continue to raise our flag that “we fly by the seat of our pants”. My stress level about worrying about where to stay, what to do, when will we get there, is at all time low…Joan not so much but she seems to be adjusting. I keep telling her that as long as there is a Walmart around we will always have a home, not sure if that is reassuring to her or not.

Hope to have a plan soon…more to come.